He then describes being 16 in 1968 in California, when surfers were seen as outcasts and even his friend who played on the football team drops off the team to surf.įinnegan then details his 1971 stay in Hawaii, when he has dropped out of the University of California and Santa Cruz to surf and live with his then-girlfriend, with whom he has a painful breakup after she has an abortion and finds her LSD-addicted father in California. His parents were TV and film producers and sea-loving liberals who encouraged him to devote himself to socially conscious causes. He then describes his ocean-obsessed upbringing in California starting in 1956, when he was four. Then in eighth grade, the young Finnegan contends with local waves that stoke his obsession with surfing and fends off bullies while developing greater independence from his family. The book begins in Honolulu in 1966, when Finnegan's family moves to Hawaii for his father's job. He divides his memoir into chapters that describe different epochs of his life and his approach to surfing at that time. In this memoir, Finnegan describes a lifetime of looking for waves and looking for himself. The following version of this book was used to create the guide: Finnegan, William.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |